a fun box for nuthatches

This bird house is meant for brown headed nuthatches, white breasted nuthatches and tree creeping birds. We have been building bird houses as a hobby for a couple of decades now and been through a slew of designs and sizes. After much trial and error, fancy designs, agonizing over “correct” dimensions we have found the birds aren’t going to read the instructions and nest in the special box we made just for them. While there are guidelines and preferences, what we have successfully settled on in our own backyards these days tends to be very basic, one size fits all boxes. Still, this strange little wedge shaped bird house is a personal favorite and one we keep around. We’ve used this design since the beginning an it’s been quite successful for the nuthatch family with many broods raised in it over the years. It’s the only non-traditional design we have and it works, so it stays.

We put up a new one of these this past spring. Much to our amusement it was heavily inspected by bluebirds although they did not nest in it. It was also inspected by titmice, chickadees and nuthatches.

TIPS

• Use untreated rough cedar, 1 1/4″. Cedar is durable and turns a beautiful natural color as it ages, along with being less appealing to bugs. The rougher texture allows the birds to easily cling to the sides and helps the nestlings climb out of the box when they f ledge. Always use untreated wood!!
• Don’t paint bird houses. It’s unnatural to the birds, therefore unnecessary. Paint chips, peels and has chemicals in it.
• Use galvanized wood screws suitable for outdoors. They will not rust as easily.

Note:

- This bird house opens from the top. The roof is attached by a hinge. You can use an external hinge or a piano hinge on the inside for ascetic appeal. A piano hinge will require chiseling a recessed space for the hinge to fit into. Use rust proof hinges suitable for outdoors.

Note:

- The top locks down with a hook and eye. You may use a dresser hook through the top which runs into the side as they are smaller and more ascetic, however my personal preference has turned to the larger, not-so-attractive hook and eye system. This is only a personal choice as my hands are arthritic and the hook is easier than the dresser style for me, and I can’t drop the hook and eye into a pile of leaves like I can a dresser hook. Also, if there is a need to open the bird house and monitor the babies, I have found that I can open a hook and eye a lot quicker than a dresser hook. If a dresser hook is used, make sure the hole is drilled a bit large to insure that the hook slides in and out easily with no need to screw it in. Spending time trying to get a hook screwed into a bird house while momma bird panics nearby is no fun at all.

- The bottom of this bird house has a 1/4″ gap in the floor length wise to allow for drainage.

- Entry holes are on both sides of this house. This allows for ventilation as well as easy access for parent birds.

You may tree or pole mount this box. Normally we favor pole mount for ease of predator protection, this is only one of two styles we will tree mount since creeping up and down tree trunks is what tree creeping birds tend to do. To pole mount, use pipe braces available in the plumbing department of your local hardware store. Mount at a height of 5′ or higher, making sure that you can easily access it with a ladder for cleaning and monitoring.

When mounting a bird house, always face it away from weather, wind and rain.

You can buy pre-built bird houses at Songbird, Bluebird, Purple Martin, Owl Woodpecker Bird Houses.